Day 18 - Gimmelwald

Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2005, under

I have found a new job for myself, wandering around the trails in the Alps and moving the cows off the paths so tourists can get by.

Today, while hiking, I stumbled upon a human traffic jam, when I looked to see what the hold up was, and I saw a couple of cows blocking the path. Your average tourist doesn’t know how to handle gigantic Swiss cows, but since I am not an average tourist, I squeezed my way to the front of the line and shooed the cows out of the way. Growing up in the sticks does have some real life benefits…

The Swiss cows look like they have come straight from a fairytale They have these beautifully crafted bells on their necks and when a group of them walks they create a type of music that is unique to the Alps.

July 31st - 23 July 31st - 25

A short hike in the Alps

   July 31st - 15July 31st - 19

Swiss Cows!!!


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Day 17 - Gimmelwald

Posted on Saturday, July 30, 2005, under

It wasn’t had to drag myself out of bed this morning because I never really went to sleep. I got on a train that was filled with Swiss soldiers, and while Hannah was sleeping I switched seats and sat next to a couple of them and struck up a conversation. I asked them where they were all going and they told me that they were all returning from summer training. I had no idea that Switzerland had an Army, they never seem to fight in any wars, so why would they need one, besides to protect the Vatican…?

Once the train arrived in Interlaken, I had to take another train, a bus and a gondola before I finally reached Gimmelwald. Even though it was cloudy, the Alps were still spectacular. Everything is on such a huge scale, when I look up I feel really small and insignificant. It’s kinda a good feeling.

The Mountain Hostel is literally sitting on the side of a mountain and the views make up for the fact that the hostel rooms remind me of a sardine can. Prisoners live in better conditions that this! Oh well that’s what you get when you do Europe through the gutter.

It is amazing how small the world is… tonight I was playing scrabble with a guy from Moscow Idaho, his name was Graham. We got to talking and he asked what high school I went to, when I told him he did a double take… he used to live with my high school principal’s daughter! Crazy!

July 30th - 01

Writing in my journal on the train

July 30th - 16  July 30th - 05

July 30th - 20 July 30th - 21


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Day 16 - Bern

Posted on Friday, July 29, 2005, under

This morning I had an amazing Swedish massage. It was felt sooooo good, especially since it feels like I have literally walked across this entire continent.

I told the owner of the hostel about my Mexican food craving and she directed me to an “American” restaurant which she said served great fajitas. The fajitas were pretty good, and it was interesting to see what an “American” restaurant serves (besides McDonalds).

Afterwards I did a little sight seeing. Although, there isn’t really much to see, just some clocks and some statues of some bears. Apparently the founder of the city killed a bear and so now there are statues of bears everywhere… there is probably more to that story, but I don’t really remember.

Tonight I met some really great guys, Chris a Brit in the Air force who was returning from a trek in the Alps, Sean an Irishman who loved the beer in Prague (and was still carrying bottles of it), and Frank and American who takes really long showers. Hostelling is so great because you get to meet some many interesting people, there is really no better way to travel.











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Day 15 - Bern

Posted on Thursday, July 28, 2005, under

While I love the people and atmosphere of Switzerland, I really, really, really miss French food…

Switzerland is surprisingly hot! I went down to the river today and had a great time in the water. There are stairs every couple hundred feet or so along the banks of the river, and the current is fast enough that you can just float along and let the current carry you down stream until you reach another set of stairs and you can climb out.

Tonight at the hostel I made friends with some great girls, Kate and Kathryn. We bonded over games of “bullshit”, which they called “cheat”. Around midnight (okay it wasn’t really midnight, but we agreed that we would tell the story as if it happened at midnight and not nine thirty) Kate, Kathryn and Hannah jumped in the river and I ran along side, taking pictures and shouting various profanities as I stumbled along.

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Day 14 - Paris to Bern

Posted on Wednesday, July 27, 2005, under

Bern is a 180 degree turn compared to Paris. It is small, compact, and the people are so friendly. Within 30 minutes of being in the city, I had already been offered directions by a group of old men and given a restaurant recommendation by a store owner. The restaurant I ate at was called the Spaghetti Factory (no, not the same as the chain back home). The food was yummy but the waitress was who made the experience really great. She was really eager to practice her English with me and even gave me free desert!

Bern is not the typical tourist destination, there isn’t really anything to see, which is exactly why I came here, I need a couple of days to relax and take a break from museums and galleries. I didn’t expect the people to be so nice. It’s nice to be around people who want to get to know you and help you experience their city.


Spaghetti Factory... not like the American version

The rooftops of Bern


Swiss currency is so colorful!

Doing laundry at the Hostel


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Day 13 - Giverney

Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2005, under

Let’s play a game, it’s called the six degrees of Kevin Bacon… Sandra Bullock was in Two Weeks Notice with Hugh Grant, who was in Nine Months with Robin Williams, who was in Good Will Hunting with Matt Damon, who was in Saving Private Ryan with Tom Hanks, who was in Apollo 13 with Kevin Bacon!

This is how I kept entertained during the four mile walk from Vernon to Giverny. Monet’s house wasn’t very spectacular but his gardens were beautiful. It was like stepping into one of his paintings.

While I have had some great meals so far in France, today’s lunch was by far the best. I was actually successful in ordering my meal in French and for once the waiter smiled at me instead of looking pained. I had an amazing crepe with eggs and potatoes and for desert another crepe with fresh berries and whipped cream. Yummy!

Vernon, the main city outside of Giverny, is a beautiful city within its own right; it has picturesque views and quaint little houses.

I found an internet café and when I looked up a couple of minutes later I noticed a couple of boys hanging around. I began talking to them and before long we were in a full blown conversation, and I was way over my head in unknown French language territory. The guys didn’t speak great English, so there were a lot of gaps in the conversation. They told me that I should stay in Vernon and come to a party with them, I laughed and told them that I really wasn’t interested, but it took them awhile to get the message… French boys…

I went back to the hostel with every intention of going to sleep when Felix, a German I met the night before, invited me out with a bunch of British guys staying at the hostel. I hit it off with Pete, a Londoner studying at Stanford who came to Paris to study French, and Mark, from Bristol. Mark and I talked about how much we missed our dogs and for some unknown reason he was really interested in the fact that I am a master goat showman…

Paris has been a rollercoaster and I am ready to move on.











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Day 12 - Paris

Posted on Monday, July 25, 2005, under

Today was Operation Louvre, the plan: sleep away the morning then attack the Louvre with the ferocity and intensity of a lion in a heard of gazelles. Okay, probably not the best analogy, but you get the idea…

I began with the ancient Greek relics and bummed around for awhile before heading up to browse through the Greek and Roman antiquities. I still can’t decide which was more fun, watching the silly tourists trying to pronounce the French words written on the cards describing the art, or actually looking at the sculptures… After a brief encounter with the busts of the Emperors of Rome, I pushed my way through the crowd to the Italian painting section. I wandered among the greatest collection of art in the world... I had a brief encounter with Mona Lisa, before being pushed out of the way by a Japanese tourist with a camera. I finally made it out of the Grande Gallery and decided to make my way up to the much quieter section of the museum that housed the Northern European Art. The Rubens room was filled with floor to ceiling canvases and even better, comfy couches. I took a quick snooze on one of them… sorry Ruben. When I woke up I walked to the Vermeer room and I discovered it was closed. I threw a minor temper tantrum and then decided that my blood sugar was low and I should go and get a crepe. Louvre, good… crepe, even better!

I joined Jenny again tonight at a free concert in the park. The park was hard to find and I got a little lost trying to find it. It seems like I have been getting lost a lot in Paris.


 





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Day 11 - Paris

Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2005, under

Last night I made plans to join a group of people from the hostel to stake out a spot to watch the Tour de France. I am not a sports fan, let alone a cycling fan, but Jenny made the entire thing sound like so much fun that I agreed to go.

Early this morning we met up with: Adam, a Londoner staying in Paris to do research for a guidebook, Dawn a Canadian living in London, and Kara an American living in London and working for the Gap. We decided to walk from the hostel, which seemed like a good idea, until Jenny and I (both 5’2” tall) realized how much longer everyone else’s legs were. We scurried along trying to keep up, I think the only reason the others waited for us was because I was the only one who spoke French and therefore could ask for directions and read the signs.

The hours passed relatively fast. The streets of Paris were full of Americans, the majority of which were drunk and singing tuneless songs. The entire scene made for great entertainment. Every once in awhile Adam would ask me to translate the race updates that were being plugged through a PA system. Once the non-French-speaking Americans around me realized that I could understand the announcements soon I was giving the entire area play-by-play translations of the race.

It is a good thing that the riders circle around Paris eight times because it took that many times to get the perfect picture. I can’t believe that I witnessed once of the greatest moments in sports history. Lance Armstrong won his 7th and final Tour de France in a row!

I have been craving Mexican food ever since I got off the plane in London, but Europe is certainly lacking in Mexican eateries. After asking around I found a Latin American Café and decided that it was as close as I was going to get. At the café Hannah tried to order coffee with her meal, the waiter looked confused when I translated her order. I tried to explain to her that the French only drink coffee after their meals but she insisted. I explained the situation to our waiter as best I could… and he brought the coffee out with the food.

















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Day 10 - Paris

Posted on Saturday, July 23, 2005, under

Touring the sewers of a city… Brilliant? Or stooping to the lowest form of tourism? I’m not sure but the morning was interesting to say the least. Touring Paris’s sewers was a nice change from the museums and churches that by this time have started to blend together. The tour had these really cheesy displays that weren’t very interesting, but at least it makes a good story. How many people can say they have been in Paris’s sewers?

As I was walking across town to the Pompidou Center I stumbled upon the Paris Opera House. To tell the truth I wouldn’t have recognized it if I hadn’t overheard a tour guide talking about it… I took a closer look and snapped a couple of photos.

The Pompidou center was interesting. I have to admit that I am not a big fan of modern art, but instead of organizing the art according to date or artist it was organized by themes. Different rooms were filled with art that evoked some kind of feeling or emotion, which I think made the art more relatable.

I met our new roommate tonight, her name is Jenny and she is from Chicago. As great as it is to have the room to ourselves, I was glad that some more people came in tonight. Hanging out with other people relieves some of the tension that Hannah causes me.




Street performers in front of the Pompidou Center



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Day 9 - Paris

Posted on Friday, July 22, 2005, under

A great thing about our hostel is that nobody showed up to claim the other beds in our room. So, Hannah and I had the entire room with an ensuite bathroom all to ourselves, it was like a hotel for a hostel price. Unfortunately this hostel did not offer an all-you-can eat breakfast like the hostel in London, this means I suffer from terrible mid-morning hunger pains that I usually subside by eating a yummy French pastry or crepe, (okay I’m exaggerating the hunger, but I had to supply some kind of excuse for my ridiculous food consumption.) Nutella crepes have become my new favorite food, and when ever I am tired, hungry or frustrated I get one. Needless to say, I have eaten many crepes in the past couple of days.

This morning I headed out the Sacre Coeur Church. You have to climb a mountain to reach it, and I’m not exaggerating the church literally sits on a mountain above Paris. The morning fog was burning off as I walked up the hundreds of stairs to get to the top. Paris looked so dark and dirty compared to the bright white exterior of the Sacre Coeur. The church is the color white that you would imagine God’s robes to be. Standing on that hill over looking Paris, in front of that beautiful church, I felt a little bit closer to God… or maybe it was the thin air, I was awfully high up…

I realized that I was just a short walk away from the Moulin Rouge, so I decided to take the time to go see it. Apparently Pigalle is still a hopping sex district, adult shops lined the streets and Hannah was solicited by a prostitute of unidentifiable gender.

I found a great little bakery along one of the backstreets and I ordered some lunch and then helped Hannah order hers. She insisted on paying with change and it was taking her forever to count it out. The clerk made a rude comment in French and I joked along with him and in French told him that, “my friend never learned how to count, please forgive her.” The clerk laughed and Hannah asked me to tell her what I said, I just told her I told him a joke, what she doesn’t know can’t hurt her…

Next I headed to the Arc de Triumph. As I looked at the arch the picture that kept running through my head, was that of Hitler leading is armies under the arch during World War II. I remember reading in a book, that after the allied troops freed Paris the troops made sure that a French soldier was the first to march under the arch. I visited the grave of the Unknown Soldier and said a prayer for my grandfather back home. I, and a generation of Americans, have been spared the pain of a world war. I couldn’t imagine the sacrifice that my grandparent’s generation had to make.

One of the great things about being 17 in Paris is that I get into all of the museums for free! My visit to the Musee D’Orsay was fantastic, I have never really been a huge fan of impressionist art, and I think that is because I have never seen any impressionist art in person. Seeing the art of rejects of the Academia in person changed my mind completely. I could hardly keep from dancing myself when I stumbled upon the exhibit of Degas models. You could tell that Degas understood a dancer’s body when you looked at the models, their bodies seemed more lifelike than the tourists around me.

While I was looking at a Renoir I pushed out of the way by some Japanese tourists who wanted to take a picture with the piece. After they took their picture an old Frenchman behind me told the tourists they should look at the art, not just take pictures of it. I laughed and translated the French for one of the girls in the group; she smiled and then went on to the next painting. I turned to the old man and, in French, told him that I liked to look at the paintings. We sat in front of the painting for a couple minutes together, and then I moved on… god, what a fantastic moment.

Photos
Only Parisians could take something as generic as a metro stop and turn it into a work of art

The Sacre Coeur is enchantingly beautiful


Gorgeous... just gorgeous


Not exactly what I pictured... but I guess I can now say I've seen it

If you look closely you can spot some tourists trying to cross the 6+ lanes of traffic to try to get to the center... idiots, the arc is surrounded by underground tunnels!

I'm not a big fan of war memorials, they seem to often to glory the practice of war, but I think the graves of unknown soldiers I think serve as important reminders of the costs of war...


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Day 8 - London to Paris

Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2005, under

What was I thinking making a Eurostar reservation so early in the morning? I had to drag myself out of bed this morning at 5:00 to catch the train to Paris. I was a little concerned about getting to the station on time, but when I sat down on the tube I thought everything was running smoothly, until the train stopped. I was stuck in the Black Hole (otherwise known as Earls Court). An announcement came over the PA system that we all had to evacuate the train. After waiting for 20 minutes for another east bound train, a station attendant informed all us that no trains would be running until further notice.

Hannah and I tried to find some commuters to share a cab with but we had no luck finding anyone heading our direction. After standing in the road outside the station for awhile I was finally able to hail down a cab. Thank god the cab was driven by a man who I truly believe was sent from heaven. I had very little money, but the driver said that he would get me there for what I had. He smiled and then turned off his meter. We had less than 30 minutes to make it across town and onto our train, and somehow we managed to make it. I paid the cab driver all I had and he turned around and gave me back some money; he told me it was for a morning coffee. This man was truly God sent!

The great thing about Paris is all the French men, the bad thing; they all speak French. I am sorry to say that my French skills have not been of much use so far during my stay in Paris. I was able to make train reservations, and buy metro tickets without much of a problem but finding the hostel was not so easy. It is amazing that out of all the things I was taught in French class, I never once learned to say “I’m lost”. I ended up wandering around for awhile and was about to give up, but by chance I stumbled upon the hostel. All the wandering was worth it. The hostel was tucked in a back street right next to an old church, the hostel actually used to house nuns. It was right along the Seine, a couple blocks away from the Louve and a stones throw away from Notre Dame and the Latin Quarter.

I guess taking the early train did have some benefits because I was able to get in a full day of sight seeing. First on the list; Notre Dame. Words cannot describe how amazing Notre Dame is. The architecture was just breathtaking. Because of sheer proximity, I wandered around the Latin Quarter and caught sight of the Sorbonne. Not very much Latin being spoken in the Latin Quarter now a-days. Mostly a mix of English, Chinese and Arabic…

The next Parisian landmark to conquer was the Eiffel Tower. I was too poor to pay to ride the elevator up to the top, so that meant I had to take the stairs. Good news was; no lines to take the stairs. Bad news; there are a lot of stairs to climb. The climb wasn’t as bad as I thought it was going to be, about equal to a half an hour on the Stairmaster, but you don’t have the amazing views of Paris on a Stairmaster.









Gargoyles!







The street our hostel is on














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